BEIRUT, Lebanon — The clamorous heart of Aleppo, the ancient city with
its cobbled streets and mazy bazaars, fell silent on Tuesday as residents there
and across Syria’s sprawling commercial capital fled the streets and cowered
indoors, dreading the rat-tat-tat of machine gun fire and the echoing roar of
government helicopters.
Except for
the helicopters, the government disappeared, said residents reached by
telephone. There was no army and no traffic police, and all state employees
were ordered to stay home, warned via official television broadcasts that they
would be targeted by the rebel street fighters infiltrating central
neighborhoods.
“People are still in
shock that this is happening — they thought it would be limited to one
neighborhood, but it is growing in size to other neighborhoods,” said Fadi
Salem, an academic visiting his family. “They are scared of chaos and
lawlessness more than anything else.”
Residents
said there were clashes not just between the government and the insurgents, but
also between rival militias from the countryside fighting for control of
individual streets in at least one southern neighborhood. In a central old
quarter, one man said a friend had warned him not to visit because young gunmen
had established a checkpoint to rob car passengers.
Damascus and
Aleppo had been the two significant holdouts in the fighting that has gradually
engulfed the rest of Syria since the uprising against President Bashar al-Assad
began in March 2011. But now the whole country is inflamed. Guerrillas from the
loosely affiliated Free Syrian Army launched major assaults in both cities via
sympathetic, anti-regime neighborhoods in the two cities, which vie for the
title of the oldest urban centers on earth.
Much is at
stake. Whoever controls the two jewels-in-the-crown controls Syria.
In Damascus
and its surroundings, a frontal assault on the rebels by some of the
government’s most elite soldiers starting late last week largely smashed the
toeholds they had claimed, although skirmishing continued to flare on Monday.
Syrian television broadcast photographs of government soldiers kicking down
doors and hauling off suspected insurgents on the city’s outskirts.
Fighting in
Aleppo, on the other hand, first limited to Saleheddin, a poor, southern
neighborhood, has widened as more rebel fighters spread through the city, said
residents and activists.
“I am not sure if
they are trying to take over neighborhoods or just to create the impression
that they are everywhere,” said Mr. Salem. So far they have claimed to control
neighborhoods, or at least streets, where the poor Sunni Muslim majority is
most likely to give them succor, he said.
But in
Aleppo, as in Damascus, the rebels will probably have to fade back into the
countryside once the government mounts a major offensive. They will have made
their point, however, that no place is immune.
“The government is
trying to regain the initiative from the rebels,” said Jeff White, a fellow at
the Washington Institute for Near East Policy who has been studying the
military situation in Syria. “The government forces have not been able to do
this easily, despite their numbers and use of heavy weapons.”
Free Syrian
Army elements, he said in an e-mail, “are defeating some offensive actions,
seizing government positions and facilities, and making road movement more
difficult.”
Other
analysts said the government seemed to be favoring standoff techniques, like
using the helicopters in Aleppo, to avoid casualties.
“They are using this
tactic because they are desperately afraid of using up too many of their most
loyal troops in an urban assault,” said W. Andrew Terrill, a Middle East
specialist at the U.S. Army War College in Carlisle Barracks, Pa.
In
Washington, the secretary of state, Hillary Rodham Clinton, speaking as though
the Syrian insurgency’s momentum was now unstoppable, said its territorial
gains might be leveraged into safe havens. “We have to work closely with the
opposition,” she told reporters, “because more and more territory is being
taken and it will, eventually, result in a safe haven inside Syria, which will
then provide a base for further actions by the opposition.”
But a United
Nations diplomat familiar with the thinking of the rebels said they had
suspended the safe haven idea until foreign allies agree to provide air cover.
So far the West considers that a step too far.
The
insurgents fear that without such cover, they would be vulnerable to attacks by
Syria’s formidable air force. They also feel more secure living amid the mosaic
of ethnic villages in central and northern Syria — with hamlets of Mr. Assad’s
Alawite sect rubbing shoulders with those of his government’s mostly Sunni
Muslim opponents. Despite occasional massacres, that proximity forces some
restraint on the part of the government, the diplomat said.
Instead, the
fighting in Aleppo and Damascus appears to indicate that the insurgents want to
annoy the government — kind of like a mosquito, pricking it constantly and
wearing it down before flitting away.
In Aleppo on
Tuesday morning, parents stood on street corners with their children pointing
at the helicopters clattering overhead, a novelty. But the fighting spread, and
the sound of machine gun fire intensified — although it was hard to tell if it
was coming from the helicopters or being aimed at them, residents said. One man
said he had seen one helicopter fire a rocket.
As the fighting
seemed to widen, the city of more than two million people, the largest in
Syria, became what one person described as “so quiet, it’s spooky.” Those not
fleeing stayed indoors, suffering through extended power cuts. There were also
reports of a riot at the central prison that was repressed with violence.
A
64-year-old merchant said the trip to the airport, usually 20 minutes on a
highway, took 45 minutes as he detoured through back streets in neighborhoods
devoid of fighting and chaos. The airport was crammed with passengers leaving
for Beirut, Dubai and other cities, he said.
The city
felt like a ghost town, residents said, but occasionally sounded like a combat
zone. That was partly from the helicopters, and partly from the heavy artillery
that the Syrian Army fires incessantly at insurgents in the countryside from
bases ringing Damascus.
Majed Abdel
Nour, the spokesman in Aleppo for the Shaam News Network, an activist
organization, said 22 people had died in urban fighting. He denied that any
real Free Syrian Army units were fighting for control of individual streets or
robbing people. “There are individual cases — some people are doing it, but
it’s not the F.S.A.,” he said.
The Free
Syrian Army issued a statement telling people to stay home and cooperate with
their neighbors to “prevent acts of theft and rioting.”
With so many
men running around with guns, it was impossible to identify the good guys,
residents said. “It is just so hard to figure who is F.S.A. and who is a thug,”
said one 25-year-old woman reached via Skype. “In brief, I am just terrified.”
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